Ring ring, Hello, yes? Would I like to stop by and come see a table full of fabric bits that are free for the taking? …Why yes, of course! I mean, a fabric stash is never too big. I can always have more, right?
Ben’s mother has been cleaning through her crafting things and set up a card table with an assortment of fabrics she wasn’t planning on keeping. This is the stack I couldn’t say no to and followed me home like a little lost puppy. I picked up some cute frog printed cottons (stay tuned, I’ve got a plan for these…), a bright multi colored interesting printed piece, a good size length of mauve cotton, others, and a summery sunshine yellow cotton. I’m not exactly sure how I chose which one to use first. It had to do with what kind of designs I thought of for the different fabrics and liked the most. Otherwise, starting with a solid is a bit unusual for me. But perhaps I need to be going in that direction. Mixing prints in an outfit can be nice but isn’t very practical.
I just loved this sketch idea. It will be bright and cheery made out of that yellow; breezy and summery with the pleat; crisp and bold with in a solid…
Also, this is a design challenge- and those are fun. Making the mathematics work for the scallops is a bit like a game or a puzzle. Really it’s just a visual spatial division of sets, but it’s fun to plan and plot out so that the lines fall where you want them, but they are also divisible by whatever scallop length you’ve picked out.
This just makes me smile. Getting the scallops to line up at the center front and back- with a scallop straddling the center front and a meeting point at center back was a task. The shoulder seam even bisects the center of the scallop that passes over the shoulder. ~Yaaay!~ I love flat patterning!
I like to take photos of the pieces before they get sewn together. I like seeing how these flat shapes will come together to make volume. Here I have the bodice front, back, and sleeve in yellow. The back bodice has an extra rectangle shape coming off center back for the pleat. The pleat will end at the facing so that there will not be excess pleating at the neckline. That wouldn’t work very well at all for the scallops- too much bulk. The beige parts to the right are the facings for the top of the bodice and for the hem. Facings will make the scallops have a crisp, neat edge. I can’t imagine trying to sew a scalloped edge without a facing or lining. It would be a true and utter nightmare.
In the above picture I’ve got the SA drawn up for the side seams and the sleeve, and that’s about it, because the rest is either a fold or its a scalloped edge. The easiest way that I have found to make a scalloped edge is to forgo marking the seam allowance and just drawing the stitch line lightly on the facing fabric. Then I can just sew on top of that. Drawing on the facing keeps your lines hidden. Otherwise, if you draw on the face fabric you can end up with pencil line showing. Just don’t draw too dark and you’ll be good to go.
Sewing a scalloped edge requires lots of little snipping. It’s tedious but I graded the seams and cut little v shapes out of the seam allowance so that when it is turned to the right side, there will be less bulk. The outer edge will have to turn to fit inside the inner edge. If I had not cut those little v shapes the edge would be lumpy where the excess fabric would have to fold into itself.
The finished product is so niiiiice though! It makes it all worth it.That facing fabric sure does the trick!
It’s rather unusual to put the sleeve seam allowances inside of the bodice facing, but I do it sometimes if I have something that is sheer or going to ravel badly or something. I rarely do this because having the seam allowance go towards the sleeve helps to fill the sleeve cap and can make your sleeve look nicer. I knew I wanted to do this so I ever so barely shortened the height of the cap on the pattern. Another reason people don’t usually do this with sleeves is because the armhole can have a lot of wear and in order to put the seam allowances inside the facing, you have to clip them which can take away some of the integrity of the seam. I just wanted everything to be tucked in.
Ok, all done! Time for more drawings.
And pictures!!! Including goofy award poses that I like for some reason.
When I was getting ready, taking photos and the like for this post I had hung up this shirt on the balcony sliding door handle. I loved how the light shown through so I had to share the image. It’s ghostly and skeletal where you can see exactly where the thicknesses vary from the seaming and facings and how the neckline is lower in the front. I guess my sunshine yellow scallop top is just enjoying the sunshine!